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Climbing Legends – James Pearson on Boone Speed

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For US climbers, and a lot of us over the other side of the pond, Boone Speed and his climbing needs little introduction.

His first ascent of Super Tweak in Logan Canyon raised American sport climbing standards, and amongst other things set a 14 year old kid called Chris on his journey to becoming “Sharma”

Despite still climbing at a high level, Boone’s recent focus has shifted more towards photography and video, and it was in his role as expedition photographer that I first met him in 2010. We spent many long nights in Turkey, talking about the important things in life. The pasts, presents, and futures. Sex, drugs, and Rock’n’roll, and in those short 2 weeks I felt lucky to learn a little more about the real Boone, the person inside.

For me, it’s that part of someone that speaks loudest, and the little gestures and actions that make the greatest impression. One day in Turkey, I got stranded on my own in the closest big city (better not to ask), Night was falling, I had no idea how to get home, and for want of a better solution just started walking. 2 hours later, I finally gave up what little of my pride remained and called to my friends up at our camp.

When I finally got through, I could hear a big party in the back ground, and it was difficult to talk over the noise. It was clear everyone was in full-flow and I was less than hopeful about my chance of rescue, but after being passed around the group a few times I finally tumbled onto Boone, who without a second thought dropped everything, and swooped in to save the day.

During our time in Turkey, Boone told me many stories about one of his recent favorite places, the tiny Greek island of Kalymnos. 4 years later, I’m really looking forward to seeing him again, and somehow its quite fitting that it will be there!

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