We are back from Brazil, and back from one of the most beautiful experiences that we have had deep water soloing. The South-American country, to which we had never been before, is simply brilliant: incredible landscapes, a great climate at this time of year (23ºC – 33ºC), charming people, good food, even better fruit, unsurpassable juices, and a lot of rock waiting to be climbed! A testament to the quality of life that Brazilians enjoy is the fact that we didn’t see a single annoyed or angry person in a whole week…
We have spent eight packed days, six in Talhado Canyon and two in Rio de Janeiro, enjoying the first Red Pull Psicobloc to be held in Brazil.
Thanks must go to Flavia Dos Anjos and Felipe Dallorto for inviting us. They are the discoverers of Talhado Canyon, forerunners of, and the real drive (along with Red Bull) behind, one of the most significant climbing events to be held in the country of Samba, where as we witnessed, apart from dancing, there are outstanding climbers.
We dedicated the first two days to preparing for the event before the competitors arrived. Along with Flavia and Felipe, we tried, cleaned, and climbed the routes which would then be used for the competition. Between the four of us we created 14 new lines between eight and twenty metres in height, and ranging from 6c to 7a+.
During the next two days the guests arrived: Ralf Cortes: The veteran. 43-years old. For a long time, the best climber in Brazil. Acted as host for people like Wolfgang Gullich and Kurt Albert on their visits to Brazil.
Felipe Camargo: 19-years old. Currently Brazil’s strongest sport climber. Has competed in the World Cup, and has climbed 9a.
Cesar Grosso: Has travelled the world climbing up to 8c+. Five-time Brazilian sport climbing champion.
Lucas “Jah” Marques: Winner of the competition (a posteriori). Free solo and big wall climber. Psychologically one of the strongest climbers we have ever seen.
Caui: One of the promising up-comers who is very much leaving a mark. And last, but by no means least, the female contingent:
Janine Cardoso: A legend in Brazilian sport climbing with seven national championships under her belt, and 8a+ in sport climbing.
As you can see, this is an amazing group of climbers for a competition which is geared around simply enjoying it. Full credit to Felipe Dollarto and Flavia Dos Anjos for choosing the participants so well (especially in terms of their characters). You may say we were surprised by the level of climbing in Brazil, but that wouldn’t really be true as we knew that some of its climbers are among the best in the world.
In the end, Lucas Marques won “easily”, in a risky move, ascending on-sight (!) two 26m-high (!) cliffs of about 7b. Simply incredible! Second-place went to Cesar, and third to Ralf, but the competition itself paled into insignificance in an event that was so much fun.
We spent our last two days in Rio de Janeiro in Felipe, Flavia, and Raul’s company, climbing at its best crags, swimming, and drinking coconut juice on Copacabana and Ipanema Beach(es) (what luxury!) before returning to winter in the Basque Country.
All that’s left is to send a special thanks to Flavia and Felipe, who we hope to see again this year climbing on the cliffs of Mallorca, and to all the staff at Red Bull in Brazil and Spain for having given us the chance to visit one for the most beautiful countries in the world…
